I just don't find many Jig-Saw
machine these days. I don't think there has been one on eBay for years.
This one is above average when compared to those I've restored recently
for others. There are no legs with this game, right now as I'm writing
this there are reproduction legs available. I can't guarantee how long
this will be true. Please check with me if this is a deal breaker for
you. The price is $1400 which includes packing for shipping by FedEx
ground. Depending on where you live shipping and insurance charges will
be about $50, less if you live in the east.
The game has been completely disassembled down to the last small screw. The playboard and all parts were cleaned and polished. In my restorations I leave as much of the game original as possible and only paint parts when absolutely necessary. Unfortunately this cabinet had been over painted several times and was a mess. I stripped off all the old paint and then stained the cabinet almost black and sprayed with varnish. This gives it the same general appearance as the original black paint, but in my opinion looks better. If you insist on black paint as it originally was it will be an easy job for you to spray over the varnish.
The puzzle and paint on the casting and shooter is original. The playboard graphics have not been toughed-up in any way. Some of the wood screws are not original. The marquee, front door, lock, and playboard paper tags are reproductions. The green lower level where you see the balls resting is repainted. A reproduction coin box is included. A photo of this can be seen on my parts page.
The nickel coin slide is not original to the game, but is the exact same style found on the earliest production Jig-Saws. Later the company changed to a different slide. Some modification was done inside so the slide would be the correct length and operate properly.
This is one of the very early production games. The puzzle frame and shooter guard are made of cast aluminum. This is the original cast shooter guard, not one of my reproductions. In later games these parts were cheaply made stamped sheet metal. This is relatively rare and this is only the second game I've owned with these parts.
As you can see, the inside of the game was cleaned with the same care as the outside. It's working smoothly and properly.
Email if you have any questions:
hal@halor.com
The game has been completely disassembled down to the last small screw. The playboard and all parts were cleaned and polished. In my restorations I leave as much of the game original as possible and only paint parts when absolutely necessary. Unfortunately this cabinet had been over painted several times and was a mess. I stripped off all the old paint and then stained the cabinet almost black and sprayed with varnish. This gives it the same general appearance as the original black paint, but in my opinion looks better. If you insist on black paint as it originally was it will be an easy job for you to spray over the varnish.
The puzzle and paint on the casting and shooter is original. The playboard graphics have not been toughed-up in any way. Some of the wood screws are not original. The marquee, front door, lock, and playboard paper tags are reproductions. The green lower level where you see the balls resting is repainted. A reproduction coin box is included. A photo of this can be seen on my parts page.
The nickel coin slide is not original to the game, but is the exact same style found on the earliest production Jig-Saws. Later the company changed to a different slide. Some modification was done inside so the slide would be the correct length and operate properly.
This is one of the very early production games. The puzzle frame and shooter guard are made of cast aluminum. This is the original cast shooter guard, not one of my reproductions. In later games these parts were cheaply made stamped sheet metal. This is relatively rare and this is only the second game I've owned with these parts.
As you can see, the inside of the game was cleaned with the same care as the outside. It's working smoothly and properly.
Email if you have any questions:
hal@halor.com